2010

UNSERE LIEBLINGE DES JAHRES - ROTWEIN DES JAHRES

FAZ SONNTAGSZEITUNG (24.01.2010 | Nr. 3 | Seite 46 | Gesellschaft)

» Für viele Weinkenner ist es einfach nicht vorstellbar, dass ein deutscher Spätburgunder einem Grand Cru aus dem Burgund Paroli bieten kann. Genau das tut der 2007er Höllenberg von August Kesseler - ohne jedoch zu versuchen, einen solchen Burgunder zu imitieren. Mit seinem Duft nach hochreifen schwarzen Johannisbeeren, feiner Eichennote und der schlanken Art trotz reichlich natürlichem Alkohol ist er ein spannendes und tiefes Kapitel für sich. Um das zu erreichen, waren ein sehr kleiner Mengenertrag und enorme Akribie im Weinberg und Keller notwendig, aber August Kesseler und sein Kellermeister Matthias Himstedt übern seit Jahrzehnten, und das aus ihnen wahre Meister gemacht. Dieser Wein ist ihr neuestes Meisterwerk. «

PINOT NOIR WITH AN UMLAUT - TODAY'S WORD, PEOPLE, IS SPÄTBURGUNDER

THE NEW YORK TIMES (13.01.2010 "THE POUR" by Eric Asimov)

» Let's say it slowly: SHPAYT-bur-GUHN-der. That's German for pinot noir, and the time has come to say it loud. ... August Kesseler of the Rheingau is ine of the few German producers as well known for pinot noir as for riesling, and the power of the two Kesselers in the tasting showed a fascinating contrast to the laserlike focus of the Moiltor. Of the two the Assmannshäuser Höllenberg (2007) seemed far more structured and substantial... «

2009

www.eRobertParker.com | #185 (Oct 2009) by David Schildknecht

2007 Rüd. Berg Schlossberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese - 97 Punkte

»The Kesseler 2007 Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese evinces lemon candy, apricot paste, glazed pineapple and honey, with wood smoke and a faintly funky, musky, narcissus-like perfume wafting overhead and pungent lemon zest and radish nipping away at the your tongue, even as bright acids positively tug at the back of your jaw, engendering helpless salivation. Quince jelly, candied citrus, and honey spread across the palate in a long-lingering, opulent, buoyant display, while hints of musk, smoke, freshly-baked bread, white truffle, and salt add intrigue. This is one of those rare subsequent nobly sweet German Rieslings that reminds me of the haunting, complex, utterly distinctive expression of botrytis in the great 1971s (which I first tasted in the late ‘70s). Like its two immediate TBA siblings, this is enormously sweet, but there is just enough freshness, not to mention transparency to kaleidoscopic complexity. Not only has this the potential to be great wine in 50 years, it's already great and will probably keep getting better!«

2007 Rüd. Berg Schlossberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule - 95 Punkte

»Strikingly pure, sweet extract of almond, lily and gardenia rises ravishingly from the glass of Kesseler 2007 Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule, along with Gewurztraminer-like spices and litchi. Imposingly creamy and decadently perfumed and opulent on the palate, this displays every bit as uncanny a sense of lift and delicacy as its Berg Roseneck counterpart, but here the impression is of a rich pastry enveloping very lightly cooked quince, yellow plum, and litchi filling, and sauced in lemon cream. The acids seem to have been both sublimated and perfectly harnessed in the interests of a lift-off like finish that retains not just caressing opulence and soaring floral notes, but genuine refreshment as well. This will be exciting to follow over the next 25 or more years.«

2007 Rüd. Berg Roseneck Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule - 92 Punkte

»Kesseler's 2006 Rudesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule is immediately striking for its sense of levity and delicacy allied to concentrated expressions of peach preserves; over-ripe pear and honeydew melon; marzipan; and gardenia. Like chiffon that has been beaten into a fine froth, this descends on the palate as a cloud, then lingers long with hints of creaminess, as well as floral and fruit essences. It would be difficult to offer more of a contrast than between this memorable wine and its counterpart from the Lorcher Schlossberg. I expect that here, too, we have a wine with quarter-century potential.«

2007 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese - 92 Punkte

»The 2007 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese smells pungently high-toned of distilled pit fruits, citrus oils, horseradish, and white pepper. Only in its viscous, rich palate display does one perceive the peach and quince preserves as well as honey that mark this as a TBA super-concentrate. Caramel and white raisin add to the impression of nobility, even as fresh, slightly sharp citrus conveys the message of high acidity into a finish that cuts deep like a blade, albeit one slathered in fruit preserves, honey, and caramel. At this early stage there is not the harmony of acid and sharper botrytis notes with the raisin, jam, and candied aspects that were a feature of the Berg Roseneck BA, and the sense of sheer sweetness is almost overwhelming. But this is an awesomely-concentrated Riesling that will no doubt live for decades.«

2007 Rüdesheimer Bischofsberg Riesling Spatlese Gold Capsule - 89 Punkte

»Kesseler's 2007 Rudesheimer Bischofsberg Riesling Spatlese Gold Capsule smells of peony, heliotrope, and ripe peach. Lush, richly ripe, subtly oily in texture and honeyed in cast, this inserts a prickly, botrytis-induced spiciness onto an otherwise cuddly, plush, buoyant palate. There is a lot of sheer sweetness to work off here and I would be inclined to give this opulent, rather static Riesling 8-10 years in the cellar before even revisiting; but it will almost certainly keep well for the better part of two decades. «

2008 August Kesseler Riesling Kabinett trocken

FAZ Sonntagszeitung, 18.10.2009, Seite 52, von Stuart Pigott

»... Das strahlende Zirkusaroma und die mineralische Note bilden trotz des schlanken Körpers (nur 11,5 Prozent Alkoholgehalt) ein ausreichendes Gegengewicht zur betonten Säure. Dieser Balanceakt erfordert viel Akribie im Weinberg und eine späte Lese, nämlich erst im November, um die nötige Traubenreife zu erlangen. ... «

2008 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Spätlese halbtrocken

»... Seine hochelegante, rassige Riesling Spätlese halbtrocken ... zeigt, wie mühelos solche Weine die natürliche Süße aus der Traube verstecken, Dieser Wein endet mit einer filigranen, eindeutig herben Note - ein idealer Begleiter vor allem von Fisch. «

2007 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling Auslese - 92 Punkte

www.riesling.de - 13.10.2009

»Kompakte, elegant-duftige Nase, Pfirsich, Kandis, Quittengelee. Im Mund kompaktes, mineralische Extrakt, präzise gewirktes Süß-Säure-Spiel, kandierte Kräuter, Pfirsichextrakt, dann frisch, fast prickelnd, Zitrus, Grapefruit, feine ätherische Noten, sehr guter Abgang, endlos mineralischer Nachhall. Sehr druckvoll und nicht zu süß! Großartig.«

2007 Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Riesling Auslese - 91 Punkte

»Filigran-kräuterige Nase, Kernobst, heller Pfirsich, Zitrus. Im Mund dann saftig und animierend, kompakt gewirkte Mineralik, offensives Süß-Säure-Spiel, sehr guter Abgang, mineralischer Nachhall. Klassisch und sehr gut. «

Weinwelt | Ausgabe 5-2009 „Rote Furore aus dem Rheingau"

»...schwärmt August Kesseler, dessen Spätburgunder zu den feinsten in der Republik zählen. August Kesseler ... ist heute einer der profiliertesten Rotweinmacher Deutschlands, seit Ende der Achtziger räumt er auf Wettbewerben einen Preis nach dem anderen ab. «

2007 Rüd. Berg Schlossberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Gold Cap - 98 Punkte

Wine Spectator - Issue: Apr 30, 2009 web issue 2009

»A spicy style, thickly textured and mouthcoating with its grapefruit, orange peel, dried apricot and baking spice notes. Bracing acidity keeps it defined and fresh on the lingering aftertaste. Drink now through 2050. «

2007 Rüd. Berg Roseneck Riesling Beerenauslese Gold Cap - 95 Punkte

»Elegant and delicate, with vibrant structure driving the citrus jelly, apricot and mineral notes. It's beautifully balanced and the citrus tones carry into the aftertaste. Really shows the purity and clarity of the vintage. Drink now through 2040.«

2007 Lorcher Schlossberg Riesling Auslese Gold Cap - 93 Punkte

»Light as a feather and intensely flavored, showing grapefruit, honey, quince and spice notes. Bracing and taut, finishing on the austere side now. Needs time. Best from 2012 through 2035.«